A Century of Designer Menswear

One Hundred Years of Menswear by Cally Blackman is a new volume, published by Laurence King Publishing in September 2009, which explores the revolution in menswear that has taken place over the past century. A thorough and engaging collection of photographs accompanied by Blackman's astute observations, the 320-page book looks at how men's fashion has evolved over the years. The full gamut of styles is presented, from practical to peacock, and Blackman gives us new perspective on how that transformation actually took place.

Now, you might be wondering: has designer men's clothing really changed all that much over the years? Women's, sure, that changes practically on a weekly basis it seems, but men's? Yet it's true: men's fashion has changed a lot more than you think and this book will convert those sceptics out there. After you read it the word fashion will no longer only conjure up emaciated female models striding down runways. It may have taken a bit longer for us guys to catch on, but little by little we're claiming more of the spotlight. As a result, the entire worldwide designer menswear industry is totally taking off like never before. The men's fashion industry is admittedly more functional and less dynamic than the ladies', but Blackman will show you just how rich the history of guys' fashions really is.

The book itself is divided into two sections: before 1940 and after 1940. It was a wise choice on Blackman's part to examine the past 100 years, since at that time the fashion among men was very homogenous and dominated by the colour black. She's categorised styles pertaining to those two distinct eras according to looks that she defines as “Worker & Soldier”, “Artist & Reformer”, “Rebel”, “Media Star”, “Peacock” and “Stylist”, among others. Her book takes a peek at the classy tailoring of Savile Row and moves on to the rougher khaki and denim styles used in the workplace. Windsor collars, wide lapels and skinny ties are all examined in turn and Hollywood style icons and famous art figures of the 1930s shimmer across the pages. Blackman also turns to designers such as Pierre Cardin, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren, offering insight into what impact these key figures had on men's styles compared to 1960s street fashion, punk and the club scene. By the end you'll be able to appreciate precisely how it came about that guys began trading blacks and greys for brighter colours and patterns.

One Hundred Years of Menswear is highly recommended for anyone interested in fashion. Fashion students, historians, and anyone intrigued by designer men's clothing won't be able to wait to get their hands on it. The rare photographs and illustrations the volume contains are a real treat.

Cally Blackman is a fashion historian and currently lectures at Central Saint Martins College. She has earned degrees in Fashion Design and History of Art, as well as an MA in History of Dress from the Courtauld Institute of Art in London. She has written numerous publications regarding the history of fashion, including 100 Years of Fashion Illustration (Laurence King, 2007).

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Ben Hart is a founder of Glass Boutique, suppliers of leading men’s fashion clothing online.

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